This leg of my journey has come to an end and if you are looking to learn more about Asado, the Argentine culture, or my journey please take a look at Asado: A Journey Through Argentine Cuisine. This book is the culmination of all my experiences, writings, recipes, learnings while exploring Argentina and I am both very excited and proud to share it with our readers.
Buenos Day to Day / On a Budget
All costs calculated when the blue dollar rate of $1 USD was around $15 Argentine Peso (and current official rate was $9.5).
Day to Day Costs
Lunch by Weight
A great option where you can go to a restaurant and fill a plate up with what you want; varies by how much you eat, typically 25-60 pesos
Taxi from Centro to Palermo
150-190 / night
60-75 pesos a bag
Around 5 pesos a trip
Sit down Parilla meal
Most steaks are around 140, round to 200 with some wine
Buenos Aires Free Walks
– Recoleta Area 10:30
– City Center Area 3:00
BA Free Tour
– Historic Area11:00
– Aristocratic Area 5:00
– Free tours in English Tuesdays and Thursdays at 11am
The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
– Free entry; English tourson Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 1pm
Museo de Arte Latinoamericano
– Wednesday is half price for adults; free for students, teachers and persons with disabilities.
Museo de Arte Decorativo
– Free on Tuesdays
Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires (MAMBA)
– Free on Tuesdays
Other Helpful Hints
For the most part, you will be using a combination of the Subte (Metro) and Collectivos (Buses). For buses, you have to have a “Subte Card” or be able to pay with coins. Connectivity for Subways is quite limited so use this website for route options: https://mapa.buenosaires.gob.ar
It’s not at all difficult, nor as unsafe as you think:
– Head over to Florida Street
– Pick a person saying “Cambia, Cambia”
– Do a couple people to get a sample size, you can attempt to haggle but most times the rate is consistent
– You get best value for large bills, and USD is the most widely accepted
Barrios with Highlights
– Palermo: trendy, Brooklyn-esque area with the Nightlife and Restaurants
– Recoleta: a posh area where the upper class used to live, now most associated with a Parisian vibe, museums, and great parks
– La Boca: a small area where the port and lower class used to live, colorful and has a great vibe despite being touristy—the area surrounding is unsafe, please don’t walk there
– San Telmo: Historic area with cobblestone streets, many parillas and a local feel, most popular Flea Market on Sundays
– Historic: Montserrat & San Nicolas are the areas with the government buildings such as Casa Rosada, or other sights such as the Opera house or 9 de Julio (the widest street); best explored with a walking tour to get a snapshot of the history
– Porto Madero: Trendy area where locals now live, Eco-reserve to escape the city, Costanera Sur with a Sunday Market, and many many Street Carts
Where to Eat: http://bicoastalcooks.com/buenos-aires-food-map-where-to-eat-in-buenos-aires/
– Argentina Experience https://www.theargentineexperience.com/#dinner-experience
– Parrilla Tour https://parrillatour.com/
– Steak by Luis https://steakbuenosaires.net/steak/
Language & Slang
I can’t say that my Spanish was at all great coming into Argentine, but in past travels, despite being fairly broken, I have been able to make do. Argentina, however, speaks a dialect called Castellano that has a few nuances that are very helpful to understand.
Use “Vos” instead of “Tu”.
“ll” pronounced “sha”.
“Yo” pronounced “sho”.
Use “Aca” instead of “Acqui”.
Slang and Vocabulary
Plata – Money
Che Baludo – What Up
Me Chupa Un Huevo – Whatever
La Concha de Mi Madre – Fuck
Puta Madre – Fuck
Argentines are also very active with their hand movements:
Bring the thumb and fingers together. And wave it back and forth = You are showing impatience or frustration.
Now do the same under your throat = You are saying fuck you.
Slap one hand faced up onto of another hand faced up = You are asking for plata or telling someone to hurry up.
All these itineraries can be done in the reverse as well as scaled up or down depending on time available. I have categorized them based on type of person, but the smartest decision would to pick and choose from each to create your own journey.
The Nature Lover
Argentina is filled with spectacular sights, the only problem being that they are fairly spread out across this vast continent. This itinerary will involve the heavy use flights to get around.
– Iguaza Falls
There is no better destination than Patagonia for The Adventurer.
– Fly in Santiago
– Torres del Paine
– Ushuaia to fly out
To get the best food that this region has to offer, sticking mainly to the norther half of the continent.
– Buenos Aires – Parillas and Trendy Food
– Salta – Traditional Cuisine
– Mendoza – Wine
– Bariloche – Lamb, Beer, & Chocolate